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When compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. However, nestled prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the family totally surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” states a family member, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble place achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary triumph.